Brooches in Copper and Silver wire

Making jewellery is a fascinating past-time. Holding a piece of copper or stained glass in my hand and imagining what it can become is exciting and exhilarating, gets the creative juices flowing and can lead to hours of immersion in the design. There's a certain thrill in looking down at the new piece just made.

.10mm Silver plated wire from Germany I mostly use. Other sizes are 0.8mm and 0.6mm, after that at gets a bit too thin.

Using wire and copper in making jewellery gives you endless choices in creativity. Wire allows you the freedom to get creative with twists, turns, and wraps and endless creative shapes can be cut out of copper. I mostly use silver plated wire from Germany, but also love the .20mm copper wire you can buy from electrical shops. It's thicker, firm, but still easy to bend into shapes.

A necklace with Green beads made out of copper wire

If you're interested in using wire in jewellery making, there are many tutorials on the internet, but I found this easy one for a 'Purple Passion Pendant' at Domestic Diva. At 'All Free Jewelry Making' you will also find some useful links.

I use copper sheeting bought by the roll from many craft shops, it's soft and pliable and very easy to work with and the solder takes to it perfectly. 5 Mil (.005 inches thick) 36 gauge, copper is thick enough that it will hold shape pretty well. You cannot tear it with your hands, but it can be be cut with scissors. It is very flexible and pliable. To use in jewellery as is, you have to have something solid backing it, but covering it in solder gives it the necessary rigidity for brooches and pendants. It is perfect for die-cuts and punches. 8 Mil (.008 inches thick) 32 gauge, copper is approximately 11 - 12 times thicker than typical household aluminium foil and 1.5 times thicker than the 5 mil. This is a heavy-duty tooling foil. 8 mil can be cut fairly easily with scissors and is still very pliable and holds its shape a little better than the 5 mil, but to punch it requires quite a bit of pressure. I rarely use 10 mil as it needs to be cut with heavy duty scissors or a utility knife. As with any sheet metal, the edges can be extremely sharp. Be careful when cutting or working with copper sheeting. Whenever I create pieces that have sharp corners, I usually use an old pair of scissors (so I don't worry about ruining them) and trim the corners so that they are slightly rounded.

Here is a fairly easy tutorial on "How to work with copper sheeting".

Hand-made brooch out of copper, wire and silver solder with a clear blue glass jewel in the centre

Two amber glass jewel brooches, the first surrounded with silver solder, the second with silver wire and silver solder and a ring for hanging something

Silver wire brooch with silver wire, filled with silver solder and two seed beads

Red glass jewel brooch with silver wire filled with silver solder

White glass jewel brooch with silver wire and filled with silver solder

An iridescent glass jewel brooch with silver wire and silver solder

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Cigarette box holder

Made out of copper, coated with silver solder and then paginated, this cigarette box holder has a hinge at the back for easy lifting of the lift. Made to hold a box of 30 cigarettes.

Hinge at the back of the cigarette box

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"Willpower" pendant

The steel-like finish of the copper scroll symbolises willpower and a steely resolve to stand firm in your decisions.

An oblong piece of copper in a scroll form, covered in silver solder and then paginated with 'BlackIt' for a vintage effect. Fitted with a silver chain and a wooden bead hangs from the bottom.

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Silver heart pendant on silver chain

A very easy project for beginners starting to work with copper. Cut out a heart-shaped piece of copper and cover with silver solder. Bend some silver wire in a heart shape and place it a bit off-set on the copper heart, soldering together where necessary. A little glass bead dangling from the bottom finishes it off nicely. Hang from a silver chain.

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Hoe om met koper te werk

Koperplaat, Soldeeryster, Soldeeryster houer (stand), Staaf soldeersel, Flux met borseltjies, tanjetjies

Om met koperplaat te werk is pure plesier - dit kom in rolle van ongeveer 50cm wyd en ongeveer 10 meters op 'n rol. Koperplaat is beskikbaar by meeste arts en crafts winkels. Dit is uiters buigsaam en werkbaar en ook maklik om te sny met 'n gewone skêr, alhoewel jy nooit weer die skêr vir gewone huishoudelike gebruik sal kan gebruik nie!

En deur koper bedoel ek COPPER, nie BRASS nie. Koper is rooierig en brass (geelkoper) is geel. Ek werk partymaal met geelkoper, maar baie min.

Ek gebruik koper nie alleen en op sy eie nie, met ander woorde, ek soldeer artikels aan die koper vas. Koper is 'n wonderlike hitte-geleider en baie maklik vatbaar vir soldeersel. Ek omlyn die koper ook met die soldeersel om 'n afgewerkte voorkoms te gee en om die skerp kante te bedek.

'n Mens kan omtrent enige iets uit hierdie koper ontwerp - vierkantige, ronde of enige vorm plat collages, waaraan jy dan items soos kristalle, stukke glas of krale kan vas soldeer as 'n muurbehangsel teen die muur of in die tuin.

Ek gebruik dit baie vir my juweliersware, asook om items soos sigaretaansteker-houers, asbakkies, borde en pierings, omranding vir 'n spieël, besigheidskaartjie-houers, 'desk tidies', sneesdoekie bokse (tissue holders) en nog vele ander te maak - gebruik jou verbeelding.

Koper en Glas saam gebruik - die koper is gepatineer met 'BlackIt' om 'n antieke voorkoms te gee

Om artikels uit koper te maak, sny 'n stuk koper van die rol af ongeveer so groot soos jy dink jou projek gaan wees. (As jy te klein sny, kan jy altyd 'n stuk aanlas met soldeersel.)Maak dit plat met 'n roller (Dit is ook beskikbaar vanaf kunswinkels) en wees versigtig vir die skerp punte aan die kante. Gebruik handskoene as jy kan. Jy kan met 'n spesiale koper "scribe" (dit is 'n tipe pen met 'n metaal punt) jou vorm op die koper teken en dan uitsny. (Ek gebruik baie maal sommer 'n ou BIC pen om mee te teken.)

Stuk gesnyde koper en 'n soldeerstaaf

Jy kan ook vry-vorm stukke koperplaat neem en dit met die hand buig en verwerk in 'n abstrakte vorm. Ek gebruik ook 'n klein platneus- of ronde-neus-tanjetjie om te help met die buigwerk.

Voorbeelde van Koper gebruik in vry-vorm - borsstukke uit Koper met Glasjuweel. Die koper en soldeersel is gepatineeer om 'n antieke voorkoms te gee.

Om items aan die koper te soldeer, sal jy 'n soldeeryster nodig hê - ek gebruik 'n Weller temperatuur-gekontroleerde soldeerbout met verwyderbare punte, wat in allerhande diktes beskikbaar is. Maar enige soldeeryster is goed genoeg, en maak seker jou koop ook 'n houer waarin die soldeeryster rus wanneer dit nie in gebruik is nie. Werk versigtig met die soldeeryster, dit kan verskriklike brandmerke veroorsaak.

Weller Soldeeryster op houer 

Soldeersel kom in stawe of rolle en dan sal jy ook "Flux" (dis 'n vloeistof) nodig hê wat die katalis is tussen die soldeersel en die koperplaat. Neem 'n klein borseltjie (daar is spesiale flux borseltjies beskikbaar), dip dit in die flux en smeer dit aan die rand van die koper. Vat dan die soldeerbout en die soldeerstafie en soldeer klein stukkies soldeersel aan jou kopervorm. Dit gee die eerste lagie en enige items wat jy nou gaan aan soldeer, sal maklik verbind.

Soldeerstaaf (solder stick) koper en soldeeryster

Om te soldeer, hou die soldeerstafie of rolletjie in jou linkerhand, hou dit so na moontlik aan die koper en, met die soldeerbout in jou regter hand, verhit die soldeersel en laat dit op die koperplaat drup - maak dit dan gelyk deur dit met die soldeerbout liggies oor die plaat te "trek". Wees versigtig vir soldeersel-spatsels en gebruik 'n beskermende bril.

Alhoewel die koper sigbaar is in baie van my projekte, bedek ek meesal al die koper met die soldeersel om 'n silwer voorkoms te gee. Die rede hiervoor is dat die koper koperkleurig is en die soldeersel is silwer. Derhalwe kry jy twee kleure. Ek patineer ook baie van my ontwerpe om dit 'n antieke voorkoms te gee en wat die silwer in amper swart verander.

'Bloekomblaar' - 'n Stel oorbelle gemaak uit koper en liggies gepatineer met 'BlackIt'

Jy kan enige plek werk met jou koper, maar 'n ideale plek is 'n spesiale kamer of studio wat jy inrig spesiaal net vir al jou kunswerk-aktiwiteite. Ek het 'n 4m x 2m kamertjie ingerig met 'n L-vormige sementblad met rakke onder en bo dit waarop ek al my benodigdhede pak. Ek het ook hakkies aan die houtrakke aangebring om draad en soorgelyke goeters te hang. 'n Vereiste is 'n elektrisiteits-prop vir jou soldeeryster en dalk ook 'n lamp as die beligting nie te goed is nie.

 My 4m x 2m Studio waar ek al my kunswerk doen

 My 4m x 2m Studio waar ek al my kunswerk doen

My 4m x 2m Studio waar ek al my kunswerk doen 

LYS VAN BENODIGDHEDE :
- Koperplaat
- Roller
- Soldeeryster met houer
- Soldeersel - rol of stawe
- Bottel Flux
- Flux borseltjie
- "Scribe" of pennetjie om mee te teken
- Handskoene
- Beskermende bril
- Skêr
- Platneus- en/of rolneus-tanjetjie
- Groot tafel of werk area

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Cigarette Lighter case

Hand-crafted by myself

A cigarette lighter case crafted out of copper with a soapstone bead insert.

I cut a piece of copper that would wrap around the lighter and cut it to size and solder the edges together. The I cut an oval out of the copper and soldered it to the bottom of the lighter and added the soapstone bead in the centre. I then brushed on a coat of black patina for an aged look and buffed it with some fine steel wool.

The copper sheeting I use for my items

My studio where it all happens

Clear Stained glass jewel brooch

A brooch hand-crafted from copper, crumpled into a pleasing shape, with a layer of black patina to give a vintage look. A clear stained glass jewel is used in the middle.

Back of brooch

Two brooches in different colours

Matching teardrop earrings with pin and butterfly

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Round Amber Glass Jewel and Copper pendant

Here I cut a flat round circle out of some copper sheeting and cut a hole the size of the glass jewel slightly off-centre (I use ordinary office scissors for this job). Once I had wrapped the copper foil (¼" width) around the glass jewel (it is the catalyst for soldering the glass to the copper as solder does not take on glass), I soldered it in place, allowing the light to shine through from the back. I covered the copper in silver solder and then soldered some pieces of wire onto the bottom half of the copper, giving it a coat of black patina and gently buffing it with fine kitchen steel wool to create an aged effect. After soldering on some rings, it was ready to suspend from a nice thick rope chain.

To work with copper sheeting is an absolute pleasure. It is pliable, easy to handle and can be cut and shaped into any shape you please. It can be combined with many other materials like glass, wood, stone, steel, shells and even plastic or used on it's own to create one-of-a-kind copper jewellery.

I purchase mine in rolls, available from most craft shops, which is then easy to store and doesn't take up as much space as when you buy pre-cut flat sheets.

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Pink Glass and Copper pendant

Connecting things - that's what creativity is all about! As you get an idea, it starts flowing and you end up just connecting the dots. A shape, or a colour, is enough to spark a whole new sequence of events.

Pink oval stained glass and crumpled copper  joined in union with solder and silver wire. A coat of black patina was applied and scrubbed with fine steel wool for an vintage look. Hanging from a silver rope chain.

 Matching clip-on earrings - pink glass surrounded by silver solder and long pink glass beads suspended on 3 silver rings

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